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Wires

Posted in repair, The Long Rode on January 31st, 2013 by Wade

It’s been about Three days that I’ve been rewiring Marlin.  I started at the back (rear fender) and worked my way forward.  The two big wiring points are the Terminal Box, under the seat, behind the coil and the Terminal Board under the fork cowl.  In the picture you can see the Terminal board , believe it or not those are the new wires.  The other picture is the Panel (dashboard) wires.

The funest and most time consuming part was wiring the handel bars.  I did the whole pull though thing were I soldered the new wires to the old wires and pulled them though the handle bar halves (btw the handel bars are two pieces).  I then got to solder the wires into the old switches and buttons   That was pretty cool to see switches that could be rebuilt that way.  Now I just hope I got every thing in the right places and nothing shorts out.

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Transmission

Posted in Cosmetics, repair, The Long Rode on January 25th, 2013 by Wade

I got Marlin outside today to clean the frame as well as pull the transmission to clean and inspect the gears.  As you can see in the photos the gears have been about the cleanest thing on the bike.  Every thing came apart pretty easily but putting it back together was a bear.  Turns out you have to put the trans back on the mounting plate in order to slide it into the frame.  otherwise it wont fint around the swing arm tube and the pogo tube.  In the process of tightening the mounting plate back down I striped the front left bolt.  I guess with every thing I’ve done one striped bolt on the trans plate isn’t to bad.

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Lets get started

Posted in repair, The Long Rode on January 22nd, 2013 by Wade

Hey, long time no blog.

Well I called Billy and he said that the fly wheels were finally in.  They were on back order and are the last piece holding up the engine rebuild.  Yeah Marlin’s power plant should be ready by the end of January.

Now I have to get on the ball and get everything else ready.  So last Sunday I got back to work.  I pulled the oil tank to reclean it and get all the glitter (mettle shavings) out.  I also pulled the rear fender so I can start to get the wiring taken care of.  That when I found this.

wire chanel

That is a chanel in the fender with the brake and turn light wires running though it.  I dont know how to get it out or the new wire back in for that matter.  So I check on some forums and duh   Just run a single wire up solder them together and feed them all back though.

But before I do that I plan to take the rolling chase out and clean all the grease and grime off of the frame while I can reach everything.

 

Next on the list,

Clean the frame,

rewire,

clean the tanks,

reassemble.

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hammer blows

Posted in Engine, repair, The Long Rode on November 3rd, 2012 by Wade

Yesterday I finally took the engine into Billy’s.  Unfortunately when I asked him about turnaround time he got really evasive and said it was hard to say as this is the season of limited parts availability.  Oh yea there was also this storm back east witch would also limit part availability.  So hopefully the engine will be done before the years out but its hard to say.

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YOM plate

Posted in Cosmetics, Not Glide Related on October 8th, 2012 by Wade

The USPS sucks, for the most part
“Let me ‘splain.
No, there is too much. Let me sum up.”
I bought an old CA black and yellow licence plate for Marlin.  In accordance with the YOM (year of manufacture) law.  You can put a vintage plate on a vehicle of the same erra.  The BY plates went form 63-68/69.  As Marlin is a 68 I thought it would be cool to put a YOM plate on him instead of the current white blue plate.  With that said I scoured and monitored e-bay for about 3 months and finally there was a plate that was not too badly damaged for under $60 ($0) opening bid.  So I bid and won the plate for ~$20.

So now I have this plate and I wanted to have it resotred.  So I put it back into the ebay shipping envelope and boxed it up with the USPS shipping box that have the standard prices and sent it off to the Tag Dr. Two days later I get an email from Rod at tagdr telling me the box arrived empty, open and stamped by the post office as such.  this caused me to call up the post office and complain.  That is an entirely diffrent rant that I wont go into now.

Guess What as I was hopping and praying the envelope (with the plate) was in the mailbox today.

So lets see

  1. usps boxes suck
  2. usps lost my package contents
  3. usps re-delivered a canceled opened parcel.
  4. YEAH the usps got my plate back to me.

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Bottom end

Posted in Engine, repair, The Long Rode on June 16th, 2012 by Wade

Ugh.  I ran the botom end up to Hawg’s last week so we could press out the fly wheels a generaly asses the stat of the bottom end.  First I want to say sorry that I dont have any pictures. The subject completly sliped my mind.  durring this whole process. What I will say though is that the proccess was rather enlightning and edjucational.  To Hawgs I took the left case , fly wheels, and the gouged piston.  The first thing Hawg did was to look at the piston and say “look how the ware goes at an angle to vertical.”  Damn he knows what hes talking about. 🙂  So after some shit shooting and finding tools we got the flywheel pressed out of the case.

We found some interesting things.  First the connecting rods had been pushed over into the thrust washer left thrust washer to the pint that it had gouged into it.  Can it be fixed ???  Then we found that the connecting rods were vary difficult to get off of the drive crank pin.  But we did get them off.  What we found after we got the flywheels apart was nothing liess then disappointing.  First the right flywheel was bored, drilled for balancing, at the top, neer the crank pin.  This is a NO NO as it weakens the wheel and leads to cracking.  Next we found that the borring holes on the left wheel were drilled out then refilled with lead.  In of of itself is not bad but when ist is just half assed into the hols it leads to the lead falling out of the holes. As in this case.  We speculate that it was the leaching lead the lead to the connecting rods feeling so gummy and hard to pull off the crank pin.  Lastly we found that the crank pin and bearings were pitted and there for no good.

So last Tuesday the 12th, since there closed on Mondays (hours are helpful on the webpage).  I took my engine up to the machine shop and Billy said my cam was shot as well.  Now I’m looking at not only a $1200 top end rebuild but a bottom end as well.  The parts alone for the bottom end is in the $1000 rang just for the fly wheels.  So in about three more weeks I hope to hear from Billy about a quote on the engine rebuild.

  • Valve job – $650
  • Cylinder sleeve and boring – $625
  • Bottom end rebuild – $1000
  • Original 1968 Slab Shovel with OEM case and jugs – Priceless

Now fortunately I have time to check the trans and swing arm as well as rewire marlin.

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Bottom End

Posted in Engine, The Long Rode on June 5th, 2012 by Wade

I’ve been gone for a few days on a family visit so I didn’t get anything done on marlin until today.  Actually it was Monday that I got to work.  I first got the primary cover off and found that I needed a compensator wrench.  After some calls to Hawg I found out that I needed a jam bar to keep things from moving.  I accomplished this with a 3/8ths extension.  After that I was able to get the compensator sprocket off then the clutch hub.  After that I needed one more call to Hawg to find out I had to take the battery out so I could reach the two nuts that hold the starter to the inner primary.  But mission accomplished and I got the inner off.  Next came the four nuts and bolts that hold the engine to the frame.  As you can see I got them out too.  Next step is to have the real work done.  I think I’ll farm that out to someone who can do the job.

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Rear Cylinder

Posted in Engine, repair, The Long Rode on May 22nd, 2012 by Wade

Got the rear jug off.  its beautiful inside.  it is also .01 over bore.  I dont see a more size on the front piston.  They do seam to be a matching make of piston.  I’ve got a call in to a local (ish) machine shop, that comes highly recomended by Hawg, for a sleeving and boring to match out the cylinders.

 

Got a quote for the repairs to the cylinder.

  • $275.00 for Sleeving
  • $320.00 for pistons, rings, boring and labor
  • $650.00 for valve job.  Assuming parts are all good.
  • $50.00 for gaskets to put every thing back together
  • $1295.00 To put Marlin back on the road.

 

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Top end

Posted in Engine, repair, The Long Rode on May 21st, 2012 by Wade

I’m very depressed.  I got the front cylinder off tonight and found disaster.  There is a deep gouge in the cylinder wall and the piston id shot.  A C clip broke and scrubbed a lot of metal out of my engine.  You can see the broken clip here  and the damage here.  Don’t forget this is only the front cylinder.  It was the rear cylinder that had the compression issues in the past.

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Headless

Posted in Engine, repair, The Long Rode on May 21st, 2012 by Wade

I spent several hours today taking Marlin appart.  Unscrewed the headers, took off the carb, removed the tank, and seat.  One thing I noticed was oil in the intake manifold ports.  I then took off the front head.  5 bolts and and lot of swearing.  Since I dont know what I’m looking for I guess I’ll keep going.

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