Almost There

Posted in Engine, The Long Rode on March 31st, 2013 by Wade

When I left you I had tried to turn over Marlin with marginal success.  So I call Hawg to ask him what his thoughts were.  Well he said “hell I’ll just come down and well get it timed up and running.”  So Friday Hawg came down.  First thing we discovered is that I had timed it to the wrong mark.  On the new flywheel there are three marks on the fly wheel  ( . | )  I, not thinking about it nor checking the timing marks while the engine was on the bench, just timed it to the | because that is what the manuals say.  So I had the bike timed to the advanced mark rather then then TDC mark.  Then turning to the circuit braker it turnes out that the cam was backwards.  So rather then the front piston firing on the front points opening it was firing on the back point.

Once we got that all straightened out it seamed that battery just didn’t have the oomph to get the job done.  Then it happened.  The starter just started to wheer.  It appeared that the starter gear clutch had gone out.  I confirmed this by pulling the primary cover tonight and yes indeed the starter drive gear ingages the ring gear on the clutch basket but there is no turning happening.  Hopefully a new gear and we’ll try again.  Fingers crossed that Marlin will fire up with timing straightened out and a new starter gear clutch.

Good and Bad

Posted in repair, The Long Rode on March 27th, 2013 by Wade

Well I spent today getting the last and final touches done.  Starting with static timing and ending with putting gas in.  Timing was easy and straight forward.  Turn to tdc and then adjust the circuit braker until the points are just opening.  Oh I also got the neutral light to work. I spent a lot of time with the voltmeter checking continuity and looking for hot wires. Basically found that the ground isolation on the dash pole was shot and the whole thing was hot. So instead of the button wire being ground I left that mounted to the underside of the terminal and took the socket wire and routed that to one of the ignition switch mounting screws. The polarity is reversed through the bulb but at least now the light works. 

Next I added the oil and that went pretty easy.  To get the pump primed I opened the ball check valve and cranked the engine until oil showed in the hole.  After closing it back up the oil pressure light went out.

Finally came the gas.  There was a surprise there.  When I opened the petcock gas started to leak.  I shut it off and grabbed a flashlight only to discover that I had not pushed the filter all the way onto the hose.  After fixing this little problem there were no more leaks.  Next came starting the engine.  I gaped and install the spark plugs and got read to push the button.  

You need to install or upgrade Flash Player to view this content, install or upgrade by clicking here.
As you can tell I’m not quite there.  Marlin still needs some TLC.  I’m planing to get new o-rings for the manifold tomorrow and try again.

Apparently the video stream isn’t working you can download the video here marlin startup-20130327-2050

Gas and Oil

Posted in Cosmetics, Engine, repair, The Long Rode on March 26th, 2013 by Wade

Between yesterday and today I finished every thing up

  • tightened all engin bolts
  • mufflers
  • carburetor
  • tanks
  • seat
  • battery
  • bag rails
  • floor boards
  • tranny bolts
  • installed the generator
  • cleaned oil filter holder
  • installed circuit braker

The things I have left to do are the following.

  • static time the engine
  • add oil
  • add gas
  • start it up.

Genny 2

Posted in repair, The Long Rode on March 25th, 2013 by Wade

I put it back together and it worked.  Good steady turn.

Genny

Posted in repair, The Long Rode on March 19th, 2013 by Wade

Since I didn’t have anything else to do while I wate for the new screen to come for the breather gear I decided to take apart the generator.  Good ting I did.  I should let you know I started off with a bench test of the generator.  basically you jump the F terminal to the case.  Then you connect a battery to the case (-) and to the A (+) thermal   The generator should run like hmmm an electric motor.  Guess what mine didn’t.  It did run but is was slow and labored while under power.  This made it an even better idea to take it apart.  Once I got it cracked open the brushes were my first target and of course there were blown.  One was half the size of the other and both were burnt and the whole thing smelled like and electrical fire.

My basic plan as to just disassemble the genny, clean it, grease it and install new brushes then rebench test.  But to do so I would have to remove the drive gear.  So I took it up to the local auto parts store to use a claw puller to get the gear off.  This was a bust since the puller wouldn’t fit under the gear.  however I did get pointed at a local genny shop called Holly Generator .  So I took it up.  When the genny guy came out to look at what I had he said “hey Harley generator”?  At that point I knew I was in the right place.  So hopefully tomorrow the guy with the tools to pull the gear off will be in to work.  They will also give me a diagnostic on the commuter and
armature as well as a quote on any fixing that might be needed.

Gears

Posted in Engine, repair, The Long Rode on March 15th, 2013 by Wade

Today I received the gaskets for the oil pump. So I put it together   Problem is that yesterday I ran all over looking for woodruff keys (#207) and locking rings.  See when I ordered the gasket kit I thought it was just the gaskets.  I ended up having to get the woodruff keys from the local HD shop for $3 apice, McMaster-Carr sells them for $0.23 apice in quantities of 50.   This morning I went and got the keys.  Then in the mail was my gasket kit.  Luckily the kit was a full rebuild kit with two keys and the locking ring in it.  So tomorrow I get to return the keys and the locking ring.  Whoot.

Breather gear goes in the hole on the left side of the, nice new gray, gear on top.

With the oil pump rebuilt and installed I started on the gear case.  This is where I ran into a new problem.  I got all the gears set in place and the only one left was the breather gear.  When I looked inside the breather I could see some caked on gunk.  A couple of large pieces of lead came out wich made me think it was caked with lead.  This started the process of trying to clean the breather.  Since the stupid things coast $120 I figured this was the way to go.

 
If you look close at the second picture you can see the hols at the bottom of the breather are clogged.  So I tried to take it appart.  I was able to pry off the retaining clip seen in the first pic.  But I could not get the screen out to clean it.  I finally decided to chisel it out and grab it with a pair of pliers.  This worked and would have been easy to reshape to fit back into the breather.  But of course it would not be that easy.  Once I got the screen out it was not only caked it was fused.  I think it had rusted out inside the breather and got caked with lead.  A pice about the diameter of a penny broke off the screen.  So tomorrow I get to try and find some perforated sheet metal that will replace the breather screen along with a way of securing it in the breather.

Pistons!

Posted in Engine, repair, The Long Rode on March 13th, 2013 by Wade

Billy called yesterday and said it was all done.  So of course I ran straight up there to pick it up.  Sure enough there it was just a bunch of pieces in boxes.  After a severe lightning of my pocket book I was off back home with a “new” engine in the trunk.  This is how it looked when I got put it in the garage.

There is how it sat until today.  Today I started assembly and that involved attaching the pistons and cylinders to the case.  All went smoothly.  The rings gaped out to 0.019 the specs call for 0.010-0.020.  So everything is good to go.  I did have to clean off some of the machining debis from from the top of the cylinder and there was a pice of flash on the oil port of the front “sleeved” cylinder.  It seems to me that that was something that should have been taken care of.  All in all no biggie.  A little brake cleaner, compressed air, and a fresh sheen of oil and all was good.

Now my dilemma is what to do next.  The engine weighs a ton and I debating weather to but the gear box together on the bench or put in the frame and then put the gear box together

 

Done sort of

Posted in Engine, The Long Rode on March 8th, 2013 by Wade

I just called Billy’s  and asked about the status of the engine rebuild.  Apparently its been done for about 4 weeks.  Problem is the rocker arm shaft ends have been back ordered for 4 weeks.  So hopefully the bolts will be in this next week and I can pick it up.  Apparently nobody orders the natural finish straight slot bolt ends.

updates

Posted in repair, The Long Rode on February 25th, 2013 by Wade

For now I’m just weighting.  but I have gotten a few last things accomplished.  For one I patched the left gas tank.  First thing I did was to pressure test the tank.  I used an old inner tube valve and taped it over the filler hole.  I then taped over all the other holes and give it a squirt of air.  This revealed several pinholes in the top seem just below the overflow/vent nipple.  Using Por-15 I sealed up the holes and lined the tanks.  It looks good and should now be good to go.

The next thing on the agenda was to replace the throttle wire with a bradded cable.  First I used a brake cable off of an old bicycle.  When I tried to push it into the tube  it unraveled a single brade but still would not go though the tube.  I tried all kinds of things to try and get it to push though.  I even tried a drill to spin the cable hoping it would screw into the tube and it did a little before it kinked (kind of expectedly).  So I thought to myself screw it and tried to put the wire back in.  But that didn’t work ether.  Later on I tried again with a gearshift cable from that same bike.  This was also a longer cable and has room for trimming.  This cable must have a thiner diameter because it sliped right into the tube and with almost no effort.  I have to say the throttle twist is now so effortless I fear I might have lost my cruse controle.

Let there be light!!!

Posted in repair, The Long Rode on February 5th, 2013 by Wade

Whooo,  I got all the lights working.  It took a couple of days but I finaley got all the wiring done.  With the exception of the engine and starter.  Basicly that means

  1. Headlights
    1. High and low beam
    2. There apers to a problem with the low beam switch but a little giggle and it works.
  2. Pilot lights
    1. Only on low beam
      1. Supposed to work with the blinkers
      2. I want them to work with the headlights
  3. Left and Right front and back turn lights.
    1.  This was a problem because the left kept shorting out and tripping the circuit braker.
    2. I ended finding a pinch in the wire were it comes out of the blinker light housing.
    3. The blinker unit appears to be dead.  It doesn’t blink.
  4. Horn beeps
  5. Cant test the starter button but that is all the switches and buttons on the handle bars.

After getting all the bugs out, everything worked fine.  Now I just need an engine and primary to finish checking the dash lights, oh yeah and it would be nice if the engine turned over.